Finished - the queue jumping Marianne
Hello! Happy New Year! No round up post yet - I love a round up as much as the next blogger but I'm still catching up on the last of my 2015 projects, some of which are definite favourites. Nearly there!
Now I'm the first person to ask the question how many knit dress/top patterns does a girl need? I hadn't ever really considered buying this pattern as I already have few different knit dresses in the pattern stash, but I do find I'm the kind of crafty lady that likes to take a little bit of this pattern and a little bit of that and make a mega mashup. I'm the kind of girl who has a shelf of recipe books and firmly believes that having one or two fab recipes justifies the continued position on said shelf. So I'm a bit the same with patterns and was of course delighted to be given the opportunity to try a new little knit summer dress.
The ever delightful and generous Blogless Anna gave me a surprise birthday gift! Apparently I'd given her the impression that I like a bit of stripe action (goodness knows HOW!) and I was thrilled to open a beautiful little package containing some lovely cotton navy and white striped jersey and a copy of Christine Haynes' Marianne knit dress pattern!
Now I'm the first person to ask the question how many knit dress/top patterns does a girl need? I hadn't ever really considered buying this pattern as I already have few different knit dresses in the pattern stash, but I do find I'm the kind of crafty lady that likes to take a little bit of this pattern and a little bit of that and make a mega mashup. I'm the kind of girl who has a shelf of recipe books and firmly believes that having one or two fab recipes justifies the continued position on said shelf. So I'm a bit the same with patterns and was of course delighted to be given the opportunity to try a new little knit summer dress.
I made this after our holiday so it's not officially part of the resort collection. It was a bit of a whim actually, whipped up one night whilst the husband was away for work. Ages and ages ago one of my clients came in wearing a stripey top, not dissimilar to the Bronte top, with a neon yellow neck binding. I filed it away and thought how cool (but better in pink!). I had a little leftover neonish coral pink knit leftover from a singlet and knew the colour combo would be perfect!
I went with a straight size 6 - the finished measurements are printed on the back of the pattern and makes it very easy to choose a size based on the amount of ease you'd like - despite my hip measurements putting me in the next size up there was actually plenty there. Looking at these pics I do have a bit of a fold at the bust which I think is bra and ease related - it's not there when I wear other bras, and it is there on a t-shirt version I've made that has less stretch, so it's probably worth sizing up in a knit that isn't super stretchy.
I've really noticed lately my Maria Denmark kimono tees just aren't sitting well on my shoulders. Clearly I'm becoming a hunched old crone, and so I decided after the success of my forward shoulder adjustment on my recent Inari that I'd do one on this dress straight away. It worked a treat and it sits perfectly.
I also decided before cutting anything that I'd change the hem shape. It's a very A-line dress and I know from several previous dresses that A-line just doesn't float my wide-hipped boat (and I'll be honest - there's a point where a short A-line crosses into the Territory of Twee and I have no wish to visit there). I've adjusted most of them over the last couple of years turning them either into straight or pegged skirts so I made that adjustment to my traced pattern too (see below). I think from memory I cut the length of the 6, but should have cut a bit longer as this is pretty short and has a very scant hem - I'm happy with the length but an extra inch or so of hem would make it sit better. I also lowered the front neckline just a smidge (about 1cm I think), tapering to nothing at the shoulders.
I've really noticed lately my Maria Denmark kimono tees just aren't sitting well on my shoulders. Clearly I'm becoming a hunched old crone, and so I decided after the success of my forward shoulder adjustment on my recent Inari that I'd do one on this dress straight away. It worked a treat and it sits perfectly.
I also decided before cutting anything that I'd change the hem shape. It's a very A-line dress and I know from several previous dresses that A-line just doesn't float my wide-hipped boat (and I'll be honest - there's a point where a short A-line crosses into the Territory of Twee and I have no wish to visit there). I've adjusted most of them over the last couple of years turning them either into straight or pegged skirts so I made that adjustment to my traced pattern too (see below). I think from memory I cut the length of the 6, but should have cut a bit longer as this is pretty short and has a very scant hem - I'm happy with the length but an extra inch or so of hem would make it sit better. I also lowered the front neckline just a smidge (about 1cm I think), tapering to nothing at the shoulders.
From most of the versions I've seen most ladies seem to have some lower back pooling and this is just the way it is with a relaxed fit knit dress with no back darts. I knew it would be the same for me. In a nice lightweight knit for a short sleeved summer dress I don't mind it at all but any future long sleeve or heavier knit versions will definitely have the back darts from the Maria Denmark Audrey dress added in (see my version here).
Construction was simple - the only struggle I had was to try to hem the sleeves in the round. I ended up unpicking the side seams a little and hemming them flat. The fabric (which I believe is this one, from the Drapery) is gorgeous but curled heinously and made stripe matching rather tedious. Got there in the end, with moderate success.....
I love this little dress! I've worn it constantly since making it - it's perfect for these hot days we've been having. I like it so much I decided to make a tee version. I know, I know, I've been in a fairly monogamous relationship with my Maria Denmark tee pattern for such a long time. I never thought I'd stray! It was as easy as measuring the unhemmed length of my MD pattern and cutting the same length. The main point of difference between the two patterns is that the Marianne is more of a capped sleeve, snugger in the armpits with a curved shoulder seam. It's nice to try something different.
I know it's not exciting but I'd love another dress in a nice grey marle knit, and definitely want to try the split bodice version. And try out the tee with a bateau neckline....
Thanks Anna for knowing what would be just right for me!
Xxx
I have really enjoyed reading your blog this year and seeing your makes. What a great little dress! Fab neon touch too.
ReplyDeleteThanks Caroline! That's so lovely of you to say!
DeletePerfect stripey dress and a joy forever, count me in! I've been thinking same with the MD top; with some small design variations, one can have a completely different feeling garment, same but different kinda thing. This always interests me, with staples like this its a tipping point between "yes!" and "sure, this'll be handy I guess". Love your stripey dress!
ReplyDeleteThanks Rosie - and I've also not yet tried the hemlock - I've got a sleeveless version in the pipe works....
Deletelove that neon binding and of course yay to stripes. the sewing and cooking parallel is spot on .... with a little bit of this and a little bit of that you get yourself a completely different looking garment :) ... mixing is fun
ReplyDeleteHappy new year! You have created the perfect little striped dress. I've wondered myself if the lower-back pooling can be resolved.
ReplyDeleteLike you, I was really hoping to get a year-end review together but all of my favorite projects - maybe 6 or 7 - are yet unblogged!
Thanks Morgan - I've accepted the back pooling - it's acceptable in a nice light fabric!
DeleteFabulous dress. I'm stealing both the pop of colour & forward shoulder ideas. You are the queen of the mash-up. Q U E E N 😘
ReplyDeleteThanks for enabling lovely lady!
DeleteLove the coral pink neckline - when I saw the first picture I thought you were wearing a coral necklace the dress - looks very cool! I think it's great you found a style/ fabric which works well for you, and I know the feeling when you want to make similar types of patterns again:-) Happy New Year!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much! I do love that pink!
DeleteIts lovely Sarah! You can never have too many striped dresses. I love the contrast neckline, the idea of coloured bands on a striped Bronte is one I might have to steal...
ReplyDeleteI did have to admit to the husband that I now have 4 knit striped dresses in different patterns! And yeah - neon binding on a striped Bronte will look fab - you must do it!
DeleteVery cute! I love stripes too but I don't love stripe matching. You seem to be a pro at it though! I love the contrasting binding :)
ReplyDeleteAaaah it's all about being anal, picky, and hard to please!
DeleteCute dress! Love the contrasting neckline. I struggled with Marianne (it's on my Top 5 misses), but maybe I should try the sleeveless version...
ReplyDeleteThanks Meg - give it a go, you never know, but otherwise I do like the fit of the Maria Denmark knit dress as it has those back darts and differ cup sizes (I just don't like the neckline so subbed in a self drafted boat neck).
DeleteThis looks so good - the perfect stripey dress! I have been loving kmit dresses this year too & just finished up my third dress version of the deer & doe plantain dress, its a great pattern for adapting too!
ReplyDeleteThanks Kathryn! I love the plaintain - I'll check yours out and see what type of skirt you've added. I used it for my Audrey dress neckline I think!
DeleteI've only blogged one of them so far (a red one I made in the summer) but I just shaped it in at the waist then back out again slightly - I drew round an H&M t-shirt dress I had. There's a tutorial, I tihnk on Paunnet's blog, but it's a fuller skirt which wasn't really what I was after. I hadn't thought of using the neckline with other tops & dresses but that's a great idea!
DeleteI looooooove the idea of a striped knit dress like this. I just look heinous in them. How do you make them look so chic?
ReplyDeleteOh love I'm sure you're not heinous. Maybe you could make one of your Japanese sack dresses in a woven stripe instead - fabric weight really does play a big role in knit dresses I think....
DeleteGreat dress!! I love the stripes (you can never have enough) with the contrast binding.
ReplyDeleteI agree! Thanks lovely xx
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