Tyler Shirt - Named Patterns - my WIP
As soon as I saw the Tyler Shirt by the Finnish Named Patterns I knew I wanted to try it. I do love me a good raglan sleeve, and after seeing Laney's gorgeous Archer shirt in the same fabric that I bought in NYC from Purl Soho, I was itching to get started. I've also got some awesome orange Liberty fabric that would make a lovely shirt too - let the shirt making begin!
The Tyler is a PDF pattern, and can only be purchased in 2 sizes at a time. The pieces are all overlapped, which isn't that big a deal - I'd rather only tape together 12 pieces of paper for a pattern than 20. I usually go over my lines with a highlighter anyway before tracing, it's heaps easier to trace then. The seam allowances are not included but they recommend a 1cm seam allowance. My fabric frays badly, plus you know I love a good (trimmed) french seam, so I increased the sleeve, back and side seam allowances to the standard 15mm or 5/8 inch so I can french them. I purchased the 34/36, and made my muslin in a straight 36.
Being a raglan sleeve one has to make a full bodice and both sleeves to be able to keep the thing on one's body so with adjustments it took me a few hours. It fit pretty well in the shoulders, but was way too tight across the bust and hips which was a bit of a drag because I didn't have the size 38 pattern to grade up to. If you check out the physique of the model on the website she does have quite broad shoulders, so I suspect I will not be the only person who has to add some extra room either in the bust and/or hips. I also think the armpit seam could be raised a little higher, but I wasn't sure how to do it so have left that alone for the moment.
To improve the fit across my chest I added an extra inch to each front piece (essentially the allowance allowed for the button plackets) which helped enormously, plus I added an extra 1cm on each side right at the hips, grading up to the straight 36 at the waistline:
So now I've transferred my changes to my pattern, and was quite pleased to remember to add the extra inch to my collar and stand pieces, PLUS an extra inch to each to make up for the extra seam allowances in all the other seams.
I'm going to use the Threads sleeve placket tutorial mentioned by Sunni @ A Fashionable Stitch, and was thrilled to read Andrea's collar tutorial earlier in the week too, plus there are a few other shirt sew-alongs I've found on the web that look very helpful too - this is my first ever shirt and it will absolutely be a team effort! Wish me luck.....
The Tyler is a PDF pattern, and can only be purchased in 2 sizes at a time. The pieces are all overlapped, which isn't that big a deal - I'd rather only tape together 12 pieces of paper for a pattern than 20. I usually go over my lines with a highlighter anyway before tracing, it's heaps easier to trace then. The seam allowances are not included but they recommend a 1cm seam allowance. My fabric frays badly, plus you know I love a good (trimmed) french seam, so I increased the sleeve, back and side seam allowances to the standard 15mm or 5/8 inch so I can french them. I purchased the 34/36, and made my muslin in a straight 36.
Being a raglan sleeve one has to make a full bodice and both sleeves to be able to keep the thing on one's body so with adjustments it took me a few hours. It fit pretty well in the shoulders, but was way too tight across the bust and hips which was a bit of a drag because I didn't have the size 38 pattern to grade up to. If you check out the physique of the model on the website she does have quite broad shoulders, so I suspect I will not be the only person who has to add some extra room either in the bust and/or hips. I also think the armpit seam could be raised a little higher, but I wasn't sure how to do it so have left that alone for the moment.
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| Straining across le bust! Can't pin closed over hips! Sigh. |
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| Mega sway back adjustment required.... |
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| Maybe a bit loose across my upper back but no idea how to fix that in a raglan. I can't see it - so I'm not caring too much! |
To improve the fit across my chest I added an extra inch to each front piece (essentially the allowance allowed for the button plackets) which helped enormously, plus I added an extra 1cm on each side right at the hips, grading up to the straight 36 at the waistline:
I extended the bust darts by about 1cm, and I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment at the centre back - this pic is just pinned, on my stunt double it looked good (sorry about using metric and empiric in the same sentence - it's just how my brain works I'm afraid!).
So now I've transferred my changes to my pattern, and was quite pleased to remember to add the extra inch to my collar and stand pieces, PLUS an extra inch to each to make up for the extra seam allowances in all the other seams.
I'm going to use the Threads sleeve placket tutorial mentioned by Sunni @ A Fashionable Stitch, and was thrilled to read Andrea's collar tutorial earlier in the week too, plus there are a few other shirt sew-alongs I've found on the web that look very helpful too - this is my first ever shirt and it will absolutely be a team effort! Wish me luck.....
It looks like it will be lovely once you've done the alterations. I'm still not convinced buying two sizes at a time is fair. I have students who have to grade from a 40 to a 48 at the hips. It makes me wonder who are they trying to fit? very few people will fit into just two sizes, Hope your adjustments go ok! x
ReplyDeleteHi Stevie, thanks for coming by! Yeah it's definitely something they need to consider - it's worth letting them know the feedback I think! I remember being amazed when I first found out vintage patterns only came in one size though! Fingers crossed my shirt goes ok!
DeleteLooks good so far - good luck. I aim to sew a Grainline Archer in the next month (my first shirt too), so I will keep checking to see how you are getting on : )
ReplyDeleteGood luck with your Archer - the sew along is great, I had a look last week trying To demystify collars and collar stands!
DeleteIt looks like it's going to be great :) Thanks for sharing all your notes here, Tyler's on my wish-list so it's really helpful to see these kinds of possible issues in advance.
ReplyDeleteYour giveaway parcel arrived today - I just love it! I'd been looking for a shirt dress pattern just like that one - thank you so much!
So glad! Can't wait to see if made up!
DeleteI think it's going to be great! You seem to be all over the adjustments required. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteThanks Kirsty - we'll see! I'll be gutted if I waste my lovely fabric!
ReplyDeleteI've seen the Named patterns, and I like quite few of them. But the idea of taping it all together AND add seam allowances AND only be able to buy two sizes (i'm between 36 and 38...) puts me off a bit. Well... a lot. :)
ReplyDeleteI'm very curious about you shirt though. lots of adjustments, but it will be worth it.. right? :)
I can understand your hesitation - I just made the assumption I'd be a 36 all over, optimistic fool that I am! But honestly I'm finding most upper body patterns I make I have to do at lease tone alteration, at minimum a sway back adjustment and dart shifting. I've done my sleeve plackets and they are AWESOME so I'm hoping the rest of the shirt is just as good!
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