Finished - Dolores Batwing Top
Hello lovelies! How is the week before Christmas treating you all? It's reasonably well controlled chaos at Chez Tragic - I've only committed to making a few easy gifts, but I had myself a little freakout when I realised that I had to get this post up in the next week and a half! I was lucky enough to win a copy of So Zo's Dolores Batwing pattern a few months ago, and the only request Zoe had for the winners was to have the review up before the end of the year....
I actually made these up at least a month ago, but was dragging my heels on the photos. I had a small piece of bamboo knit in my stash, and thought it would be a perfect match. I've never sewn with bamboo before, and there's mixed opinions on the interwebs about it. Mine was a remnant picked up from Clegg's at their post Christmas remnant sale, and there was just enough. It feels amazing - silky and lush, almost as nice as a silk jersey. It was ok to sew but with creases terribly, is a bitch to iron and shows up iron marks. I coped until I had to hem it. I used my fusible hem tape on the hemline to reduce the channelling of the twin needle but they most certainly did not like each other. The hem is so awful I actually can't bear to photograph it, and would only wear this top tucked in as a result. Stinking bamboo.
Anyway, to the pattern!
It's a PDF, with a nice economical layout. The front and back pieces are identical. There are 2 sleeve length options, and 3 length options (top, tunic, dress). I'm pretty sure I traced off a straight size 10, and I neglected to twig that the hips are fitted with negative ease, wiggle dress style, so even if my hem wasn't a crappy mess I'd probably be wearing this tucked in anyway as the bamboo hides no secrets when it comes to lumps and bumps.
Being summer I chose to make the short sleeved top version. I really can't remember why, but for some reason I decided to double the length of the arm band pieces. Zoe gives 2 options for getting the sleeves to fit the armbands - gather or randomly pleat. My gathering (unsurprisingly as I suck at it) looked just awful, and my OCDness wouldn't allow random pleats, so I made 4 reasonably symmetrical pleats in the top of each sleeve. I quite like the look, and with the drape of the bamboo I think is rather stylish.
A couple of things that I did that weren't in the pattern instructions - I stabilised the shoulder seams with some ribbon - this is something I always do with every knit top (usually I use clear elastic but I had none on hand). I also found that the neckline seam stood up on each shoulder so I sewed a little triangle seam which flattened it out. I first read about doing this on a boatneck in the Tessuti Mandy top instructions, and it does give a nice finish. Zoe recommends attaching the neck binding to each piece individually, then sewing the shoulder seams, and I think this is the best way to get a good finish on such an exaggerated boat neck - it's just too hard to try to attach it in the round. I didn't stitch down the seam allowance on the first version. I do think the front neckline is a little high on me - the top has a tendency to slide back on my shoulders (maybe the bamboo, maybe I need a forward shoulder adjustment) which makes it sit even higher at times so for version 2 I decided to lower the front neckline.
My rather Where's Wally-esque version 2 is made in a cheap and thin striped rayon knit from Darn Cheap. Rather than bother to alter the pattern pieces I just cut out the front piece, then trimmed the neckline a little lower at the front, tapering to nothing at the shoulders, and cut a slightly longer binding piece to fit it. I didn't need to make the neckline seam adjustment on this one (maybe due to the less slippery fabric?) and I also made the armband the regular size and gathered it rather than pleating (using shirring elastic).
It's a cute top - I think the batwing shape is much more exaggerated in the long sleeved versions that I've seen (check out my favourite, Sara's amazing dress here) and I look forward to making a long sleeve version for next autumn. I think I'll probably size up a bit around the ab too so it's not quite so snug.
Thanks Zoe for the freebie! :)
And just quickly - the cat has spoken, and chosen Danielle as the winner of 4185, and Jen L as the winner of 6022 from my last post. I've got your details already Danielle, but Jen let me know your email address and I'll be in touch!
Have a super holiday season everyone! xx
I actually made these up at least a month ago, but was dragging my heels on the photos. I had a small piece of bamboo knit in my stash, and thought it would be a perfect match. I've never sewn with bamboo before, and there's mixed opinions on the interwebs about it. Mine was a remnant picked up from Clegg's at their post Christmas remnant sale, and there was just enough. It feels amazing - silky and lush, almost as nice as a silk jersey. It was ok to sew but with creases terribly, is a bitch to iron and shows up iron marks. I coped until I had to hem it. I used my fusible hem tape on the hemline to reduce the channelling of the twin needle but they most certainly did not like each other. The hem is so awful I actually can't bear to photograph it, and would only wear this top tucked in as a result. Stinking bamboo.
Anyway, to the pattern!
It's a PDF, with a nice economical layout. The front and back pieces are identical. There are 2 sleeve length options, and 3 length options (top, tunic, dress). I'm pretty sure I traced off a straight size 10, and I neglected to twig that the hips are fitted with negative ease, wiggle dress style, so even if my hem wasn't a crappy mess I'd probably be wearing this tucked in anyway as the bamboo hides no secrets when it comes to lumps and bumps.
Being summer I chose to make the short sleeved top version. I really can't remember why, but for some reason I decided to double the length of the arm band pieces. Zoe gives 2 options for getting the sleeves to fit the armbands - gather or randomly pleat. My gathering (unsurprisingly as I suck at it) looked just awful, and my OCDness wouldn't allow random pleats, so I made 4 reasonably symmetrical pleats in the top of each sleeve. I quite like the look, and with the drape of the bamboo I think is rather stylish.
A couple of things that I did that weren't in the pattern instructions - I stabilised the shoulder seams with some ribbon - this is something I always do with every knit top (usually I use clear elastic but I had none on hand). I also found that the neckline seam stood up on each shoulder so I sewed a little triangle seam which flattened it out. I first read about doing this on a boatneck in the Tessuti Mandy top instructions, and it does give a nice finish. Zoe recommends attaching the neck binding to each piece individually, then sewing the shoulder seams, and I think this is the best way to get a good finish on such an exaggerated boat neck - it's just too hard to try to attach it in the round. I didn't stitch down the seam allowance on the first version. I do think the front neckline is a little high on me - the top has a tendency to slide back on my shoulders (maybe the bamboo, maybe I need a forward shoulder adjustment) which makes it sit even higher at times so for version 2 I decided to lower the front neckline.
My rather Where's Wally-esque version 2 is made in a cheap and thin striped rayon knit from Darn Cheap. Rather than bother to alter the pattern pieces I just cut out the front piece, then trimmed the neckline a little lower at the front, tapering to nothing at the shoulders, and cut a slightly longer binding piece to fit it. I didn't need to make the neckline seam adjustment on this one (maybe due to the less slippery fabric?) and I also made the armband the regular size and gathered it rather than pleating (using shirring elastic).
It's a cute top - I think the batwing shape is much more exaggerated in the long sleeved versions that I've seen (check out my favourite, Sara's amazing dress here) and I look forward to making a long sleeve version for next autumn. I think I'll probably size up a bit around the ab too so it's not quite so snug.
Thanks Zoe for the freebie! :)
And just quickly - the cat has spoken, and chosen Danielle as the winner of 4185, and Jen L as the winner of 6022 from my last post. I've got your details already Danielle, but Jen let me know your email address and I'll be in touch!
Have a super holiday season everyone! xx
Love the symmetrical pleats - god bless your OCD - I’ll totally copy you! BTW I love them both the Where's Wally-esque version is so much fun!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sasha! I was getting a twitchy eye at the idea of them being uneven.....
DeleteI love the colour of the first top, it looks amazing on you! The pleated sleeves are awesome, they look great with the drape. I've never liked batwing tops, but I really like both of these, so I may have to reasses! Thanks to the warning about bamboo, I have some bamboo cotton waiting to be cut out....
ReplyDeleteThanks mate! I do like that red too. I used to wear a lot of red, this year has been more of a blue year. I think your bamboo- cotton will be fine, I suspect blends are the way to go which is a shame because it's so beautiful to touch and drapes so nicely.
DeleteReally versatile pattern. Love the striped version.
ReplyDeleteThanks Gail!
DeleteOooh that's me! jenlilley@hotmail.com Thanks so much!!
ReplyDeleteSuper - I'll drop you a line!
DeleteLove the red of the top one, it's a great colour for you. More red!! I wasn't at all drawn to this pattern and I'm still on the fence about the batwing thing for me, but I think these have turned out great and I love the pleats in the sleeves of the first one. Very stylish! I made a decision recently that knits are way too annoying to sew with. They rarely behave and I'm not seeing too many knit projects in my future. Except for that Bombshell I must get done this summer! Love how you can tweak a pattern to make it truly work for you!
ReplyDeleteThanks mate - it's a really nice shade of red. I think with how busy you are you just need to focus on making what makes you happy - pick your battles. If knits give you the stinkeye then flip them the finger and move on!
DeleteThe (red) sleeves were the first thing I noticed - I LOVE the wider band! I think I'll have to get the pattern and shamelessly rip off your version...And please say a grateful thank you to the cat; I'm thrilled to win that pattern :D
ReplyDeleteFeel free - shameless copying is highly encouraged around here. Yeah the Tilster Is a good kitty - she's very pleased she made your day!
DeleteI really like the wider sleeve bands on your red version too! And you look fantastic in red!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much Gail. I just can't remember why I did it. I suspect just because I could!
DeleteThose are really, really cool! I love what you did with the pleats in the sleeve and the band. Very clever!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sara - it was a happy accident I think!
DeleteI like the striped one too, very Christmassy :) I hope you have a very Merry Christmas, and best wishes for a wonderful New Year too :)
ReplyDeleteThankyou! You too!
DeleteCool and that i have a keen present: How To Reno A House house remodeling company
ReplyDelete