Wearable muslin - Burda 7250 or, Fabric Tragic Vs Pants, round 3

I do believe I am winning the battle between myself and trouser construction. My recent Elle pants have been a great success, worn at least once or twice a week to work (sadly the cheap and nasty fabric is pilling appallingly, but version 2.0 is in the planning stages). I'm pretty happy with this pair too, a wearable muslin, Burda 7250...

These are a semi fitted cropped pant, with side seam pockets, front pleats, back darts and a fly front. My second fly front ever (first being my husband's Jedediah shorts, as yet unblogged)!  The fabric is a blue-teal cotton twill that I found at an op-shop. Its actually quite nice, and will be a good durable fabric for work trousers. I've got some awesome ikat print fabric that might be version 2, and once my pattern is perfected some linen for warm summer nights.

I cut a size 12, and didn't worry about the pockets, which was just as well as they were are little snug around my thighs and bum, and I ended up taking an extra 3/4 inch from each side seam (reducing the seam allowance from 5/8 to 2/8 inch) which would have left no room for pockets! They are still a bit snug - maybe half a size too small, but I am hoping with the arrival of some proper warm weather that motivates me to exercise a little more and eat a little less I will trim down a little winter flab and they will fit that little bit better - nothing like some ambition pants!

Fit-wise they are pretty good - there is the slightest gape in the back waistband - the pattern has belt loops (which I couldn't be bothered doing right now) - I'm sure a belt would help. I could always do a little sway back adjustment for the next version I suppose. The waistband is straight - maybe a curved waistband a bit like the Colette Clover pants might suit me better..... As other sewists have noted there is no fly-shield, which means if your zip has a wardrobe malfunction you'd better be wearing undies! My next version I will use the instructions/pattern piece from the Jedediah shorts and see how I go.

I was a bit of a nuffy and cut the waistband ends off before realising they needed to overlap, so I will have to use a large hook and eye for closure (in the photos they are being held together rather precariously with a safety pin). I've also hemmed them longer than the pattern, without the cropped cuff, because they looked a bit gumby with my work brogues.

I will do pockets in version 2 - at this stage I am planning my other big sewing challenge of the year - welt back pockets (challenge 1 was a fly front - tick!) as the big expanse of fabric-clad arse really isn't that great - I love the look of welt pockets. The side pockets are in-seam, and I was thinking I might also try to alter them to be angled pockets. Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew with that......

I'm also wearing my first summer Maria Demark tee that I cut out last weekend in my epic prep day - this is a free pattern, available here, and I love it. It's super easy, took about an hour to make with kimono sleeves, and just made for this lovely frenchy stripe in a nice quality cotton-lycra ($2/m @ B&J Fabrics in Brunswick for those in Melbourne - bargain!). I didn't finish the neckline as suggested in the instructions - I couldn't manage to make it look good with fold over elastic, and didn't want the look of a band, so instead cut a single layer of the fashion fabric 23cm long, stitched the right sides together, then flipped it inside and stitched it down with a very slight zigzag a bit like a facing. I think this pattern is perfect for stripes and looks good tucked in or left out loose. Get on it!