A frock for the resort collection - Vintage Simplicity 9489



So I’m pretty sick of sewing with knits. Or maybe I’m a bit sick of wearing mostly knits. Maybe I’m sick of wearing the same 8 garments.  Maybe it’s a bit of column A, B and C! For my last piece of the Resort Collection I decided I really wanted to try to make a frock that could be worn post partum, and was made from a woven fabric. When I saw this beautiful navy and white bird print rayon at The Cloth Shop a couple of months ago I hesitated and hesitated, until it was nearly all gone and fomo kicked in. I’d been planning to make my dress from another less loved rayon in my stash, but then decided if I was going to go to all that effort I really should make it from some thing I loved and would enjoy wearing. I'm glad I went with it - it's superb quality (no surprise there - Kim's got a great eye for fabric) and was delightful to sew up. 


I’ve got a few vintage dress patterns in my stash from the late 70’s and early 80’s of a similar style - mid length, maybe some gathering detail on the shoulders, either a cross over or button front, gathered waist or belted. Simplicity 9489 looked ideal for what I was after - shoulder gathers to accomodate an unpredictable bust size,  a button front placket for bebe feeding access, no waist seam so suitable to cinch above a growing belly and not need adjusting post bebe, and nice and cool for summer. 


It’s a size above my pre-pregnancy bust  measurement, but doesn’t quite match my current measurements of course! It does however have so much ease that I knew after measuring the pattern pieces it would be fine for late pregnancy and accomodate my pelvis belt. It’s basically a mumu that is shaped by topstitching the belt to the dress after gathering the back and sides at the waist. I've left the gathering off and belt unattached until I can retrieve the exact location of my waistline in due course!


It’s got a few interesting construction techniques. I always learn something new making a vintage pattern, even from the 80’s. The back neckline is finished with a facing that also finishes the yoke - nice and clean and simple. The front placket wasn’t terrible to make, but the instructions did have some errors so if this was one’s first placket there might be a little angst and head scratching. If I was to make this again I’d actually reverse the recommended order - the instructions recommend the application of the inside placket facing first then the outside placket gets applied and topstitched. A neater finish would be achieved if the outside placket was attached first, then the facing, then topstitched from the outside. 



I was feeling lazy and after an Instagram poll decided to cut the pockets as one with the main dress pieces. I would imagine pockets that were undergoing a lot of stress would be better separately seamed but I don’t imagine I’ll be working these ones too hard. I didn’t allow extra length at the front for the belly so it does have a bit of a high-low effect but it doesn’t bother me that much. If one wanted to prevent this in a non-waisted dress I presume you just hem the centre front a little longer, curving up to nothing at the side seams. 


I like the belt - it's made with a wider section that is topstiched to the waistline, then narrower pieces that get tied - a nice variation. Of course it I topstitch in the future I won't be able to wear a different belt with it. Always the styling quandry is the attached/integrated belt option...



The verdict on my frock? I’m pretty pleased with it. It’s cute, comfy and breezy on a hot day. It’s definitely too big in the shoulders and bust, even with my bust measurement increasing a rather shocking 5 inches(!). From these pics it looks like it falls back a bit on my shoulders - I forgot to do a forward shoulder adjustment, but I must investigate how one does a FSA when there is a yoke that extends forward of the shoulder line.....I could probably take an inch of ease out each side. I’m tempted to take the side seams in now but will wait until after the baby arrives. Would I make this again? I’m not rushing to but that might change once I improve the fit down the track. I'm hoping this gets me through to the end of my pregnancy as my fancy outfit choice. I was about 29 weeks in these pics (I'm now 33) but haven't had much chance to wear it since our holiday as we've had a pretty cool spring. If I can be bothered I'll do a late preggo round up of how my me-made maternity wardrobe has held up...... 


Comments

  1. Fabulous dress! I love vintage patterns!! I also really love the print of the fabric and how nicely it drapes!! Very pretty! xB

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Bianca! I love vintage patterns too, they’ve often got such nice details! And the rayon is to die for - quality rayon is not easy to find in Australia and this is so lovely!

      Delete
  2. It turned out really cute- I bet it will keep you cool and breezy over the next few months as it gets warm!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Meg - it is so lovely and swishy!

      Delete
  3. It looks fabulous, and so do you too by the way! You are very considerate in your choices - this is so practical for now and later when feeding baby. The hi-lo hem actually looks intentional! I was wondering if the bodice might hang closer to the body and feel less roomy once your real waistline returns?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Sheryll! I’ve been planning things like crazy to maximise wearability! Yes it’s hard to know how things will fit once this baby is out. I’m happy enough with it now! Xx

      Delete
  4. Lovely Sarah! That looks so cool and comfortable. I thought the high-low hen was intentional too, it's really cute!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Kirsten - nope just that giant ab pulling it up! I think it’s a little more exaggerated from falling back on my shoulders too. But I can live with it!

      Delete
  5. What a lovely interpretation of that pattern! Perfectly versatile for expanding bodies. Gosh, the boobage is insane though, right? The fabric is gorgeous - navy suits you well. I wish I lived closer to The Cloth Shop... I've been once before only and there were SO many lovelies! This frock looks well suited to take you through - it's lovely :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Melanie! I adore the Cloth Shop! Well worth a trip :)

      Delete
  6. I'm loving that v-neckline with shoulder gathers. Looks so great on you in that fabric. I think I need to pull out a similar vogue pattern and some rayon and make myself a summer something similar ;o)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Colette! Rayon is so lovely in the hot weather!

      Delete
  7. Sarah, I love it! I think it'll be a great transitional piece post-partum. I've actually loved seeing all your maternity clothes, even if I'm not currently pregnant. Thanks for sharing šŸ’—

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Saki! I know it’s not the most interesting of reading for everyone but this blog is just as much for me as for my readers! Xx

      Delete
  8. Um, i wrote a comment and now it’s disappeared! Bloody phone! Anyway, in essence: fab dress which I’m sure will work well postpartum. Also I’m super impressed with your maternity “collection”! Everything you’ve made has been lovely and so wearable. I made a series of duds when pregnant!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Super pretty Sarah! I found I could wear a lot of my pre-preg clothes during pregnancy because I mainly wear sacks LOL. And why don't I ever find those "nice" 80's patterns? The ones I come across I leave behind. They're usually awfully tragic. Maybe I'm just not seeing the potential...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks lovely! Don’t worry I tend to have to sift through a huge amount of 80’s garbage to find the diamonds! Xx

      Delete
  10. Hi,
    Fabulous collection .
    Love to see this ..
    Want to see more ..
    Khas Store

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment