Finished - an Inari-Maya mashup from the Resort Collection
I have found myself powerless to resist the juggernaut that is the Named Inari tee dress. I've stayed away from sack dresses, thinking it wasn't a particularly flattering silhouette for me. I tend to go with garments that are fitted at least through the bodice, but decided that I needed to branch out and try some Les Sac action. The Inari particularly appealed to me because it looked fab on so many body shapes. I love the slight tapering at the hemline, and the cool forward side seam - simple but striking. What I wasn't really keen on was the fit of the upper bodice - as Gabrielle wrote about her Inari the armscye is drafted to be very deep, and on a lot of ladies there is a bit of a armpit wrinkle that I know would annoy me, so straight up I decided I'd substitute a different bodice.
I'd recently made a wearable muslin of the Marilla Walker Maya dress (so yeah, blogging out of order but no pics of that yet) and with a few tweaks I was pretty happy i wouldn't lose the tee-dress look. From my first Maya I knew I'd have to make a forward should adjustment and lower the front neckline, but otherwise it was easy to mash them up. I'll do a proper Maya review soon but I am really happy with the pattern. I love the facing finish on the neckline and sleeves - I do love a top stitched facing and think Marilla has drafted it beautifully.
I did make a proper calico toile, to check my forward shoulder adjustment (it was my first) and to check the overall fit and length before cutting into my gorgeous linen from the Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe that was my birthday present to self.
I'm of the firm opinion that on me a sac dress needs to be just the right length - on the shortish side. I ended up hemming it 1/2cm shorter than recommended (3cm from memory). It was just a whisker too snug around my bum/thighs, and I decided to continue in that size anyway as (a) the linen would likely give a bit, and (b) I had a little winter layer that would do me the world of good to lose....
My linen was utterly delightful to sew, and by happy coincidence the stripes worked out perfectly so I could hem the front exactly on a colour change. It also wears very well, and hardly wrinkles. I haven't sewn with much linen, but like all fabrics there is clearly a difference between budget linen and pricier but high quality linen.
The pattern is very easy. Being paper I had to add seam allowances, and I did as the designers directed however for future versions I'd add at least an inch seam allowance to the side split/vent because I think the top stitching on a 3/8 inch seam allowance looks a bit scungy. Gabrielle has written a most fabulous tutorial on drafting a proper mitred vent which I might have a crack at but I think I'll be satisfied with just a wider top stitching down there, similar to the hem depth. To add extra resilience I did back stitch a few times across the top of the split.
I'm tossing up whether to make another silk version for Frocktails, with Simplicity 1366 as the bodice (although it'd probably be too hot). But I'm really happy with this version - yes it's a little snug around my upper thighs but hopefully not for long, and I think it's really chic. I'm really keen to make a knit version too, with long sleeves in winter.
Thanks to my personal photographer and art director Blogless Anna! It's always nice to have a genuine reason to smile at the camera!