Finished - an Inari-Maya mashup from the Resort Collection

I have found myself powerless to resist the juggernaut that is the Named Inari tee dress. I've stayed away from sack dresses, thinking it wasn't a particularly flattering silhouette for me. I tend to go with garments that are fitted at least through the bodice, but decided that I needed to branch out and try some Les Sac action. The Inari particularly appealed to me because it looked fab on so many body shapes. I love the slight tapering at the hemline, and the cool forward side seam - simple but striking. What I wasn't really keen on was the fit of the upper bodice - as Gabrielle wrote about her Inari the armscye is drafted to be very deep, and on a lot of ladies there is a bit of a armpit wrinkle that I know would annoy me, so straight up I decided I'd substitute a different bodice. 






I'd recently made a wearable muslin of the Marilla Walker Maya dress (so yeah, blogging out of order but no pics of that yet) and with a few tweaks I was pretty happy i wouldn't lose the tee-dress look. From my first Maya I knew I'd have to make a forward should adjustment and lower the front neckline, but otherwise it was easy to mash them up. I'll do a proper Maya review soon but I am really happy with the pattern. I love the facing finish on the neckline and sleeves - I do love a top stitched facing and think Marilla has drafted it beautifully. 





I did make a proper calico toile, to check my forward shoulder adjustment (it was my first) and to check the overall fit and length before cutting into my gorgeous linen from the Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe that was my birthday present to self. 



I'm of the firm opinion that on me a sac dress needs to be just the right length - on the shortish side. I ended up hemming it 1/2cm shorter than recommended (3cm from memory). It was just a whisker too snug around my bum/thighs, and I decided to continue in that size anyway as (a) the linen would likely give a bit, and (b) I had a little winter layer that would do me the world of good to lose.... 



My linen was utterly delightful to sew, and by happy coincidence the stripes worked out perfectly so I could hem the front exactly on a colour change. It also wears very well, and hardly wrinkles. I haven't sewn with much linen, but like all fabrics there is clearly a difference between budget linen and pricier but high quality linen. 

The pattern is very easy. Being paper I had to add seam allowances, and I did as the designers directed however for future versions I'd add at least an inch seam allowance to the side split/vent because I think the top stitching on a 3/8 inch seam allowance looks a bit scungy. Gabrielle has written a most fabulous tutorial on drafting a proper mitred vent which I might have a crack at but I think I'll be satisfied with just a wider top stitching down there, similar to the hem depth. To add extra resilience I did back stitch a few times across the top of the split.


I'm tossing up whether to make another silk version for Frocktails, with Simplicity 1366 as the bodice (although it'd probably be too hot). But I'm really happy with this version - yes it's a little snug around my upper thighs but hopefully not for long, and I think it's really chic. I'm really keen to make a knit version too, with long sleeves in winter. 


Thanks to my personal photographer and art director Blogless Anna! It's always nice to have a genuine reason to smile at the camera! 







Comments

  1. That's a really nice mashup Sarah ... I just bought the Inari and now after reading your post and Gabrielle's I am so curious about that sleeve situation !

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    1. Ooh I'm sure yours will be amazing. I wonder if it comes down to bust size - a more generous bust is more likely to create the fold I think....

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  2. Such lovely fabric - great choice for it, effortlessly chic resort wear ;o)

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  3. Great combination! I love the Maya top, too- smart idea!

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    1. Thanks Meg - I have some Maya tops in my queue - it's a very cute pattern!

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  4. I love this so much! I just bought the Inari pattern the other day in the sale, because I also noticed that it looks great on everyone. I'm loving the idea of making a linen one, although linen-wearing weather is but a distant dream for me right now :-)

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    1. Ooh I look forward to seeing yours - I think a wool crepe would be beautiful for winter - it needs something with a bit of drape I think.

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  5. Really nice! Linen is just so lovely and you are so right about the quality factor. I've succumbed to low quality linen too many times but when you find the good stuff it is oh so good. Also Team Le Sac over here!

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    1. You should try this - check the length though, I'm a fair bit taller than you!

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  6. You already know I adore this dress. Effortlessly chic. I love been photographer/art director. You are one hell of a relaxed model.

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    1. Thanks lovely lady! You're the best!

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  7. I love it, perfect combination of pattern(s) and fabric! Thanks for the tip about the vents, I'll take that into account when I get around to making this one!

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  8. Ooh I love it! The length is spot on and great work on those stripes.

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    1. Thanks Helen - I was trying to channel your stylishness!

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  9. So good!! That's a hell of a stripe, and you did it proud. I had to look and see what the original bodice looked like, as your dress really did look like an Inari! The cocoon shape and split hem really make that pattern.

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  10. I can't see a snugness across the hips or thighs at all! But you gotta be comfortable. I am ALL for the sack, yet had the same reservations as you before deciding to just give it a whirl using my many Japanese pattern books. I can never look back. And IMHO you got the hem length exactly right. It's gotta be just below or on mid-thigh or it becomes "le frump". Nice photos you two xx

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    1. Thanks lovely! Yeah it's almost impossible to see, it's just when I move in a certain way, like squatting down where the flab squishes out!

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  11. Ooh, I might have to try this pattern hack myself.... I like it a lot! :-)

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  12. Love it! I'm not really a sack dress person but I've been wanting to make the Inari for a while now because it just looks so great! I definitely prefer the Maya bodice on this too (I'm a sucker for kimono sleeves or whatever they're called). Love that linen too!

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  13. Love it! I'm not really a sack dress person but I've been wanting to make the Inari for a while now because it just looks so great! I definitely prefer the Maya bodice on this too (I'm a sucker for kimono sleeves or whatever they're called). Love that linen too!

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  14. I'm totally the same as you, I've veered away from them for a while, but since it's summer here (and I gave birth six months ago) they are all I can think about right now. Comfy, easy and you can throw on a belt if you need a bit more shape (then take it off after dinner and let it all hang out, hehe).

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    1. Comfort is so important isn't it? I am definitely enjoying the sack comfort!

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  15. I love those stripes!! I nice tee dress is so perfect for spring and summer - easy breezy! I love a good topstitched facing too. I am looking forward to your Maya review too!

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    1. Thanks heather! Gotta get going on version 2 of the Maya!

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  16. Aah, I'm a big lover of sack dresses! it's terrific that there's so much choice in this area at the moment :) I LOVE the stripes, it's a great look for you

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