Finished - a Geneva in wool
Just a quick one to share a couple of my latest basics. As you know I love me some basics, and with the change of season comes wardrobe reassessments, and the need to downgrade and replace some everyday items. This is the Named Geneva raglan tee. I was drawn to this pattern by those lovely curved shoulder seams. I know raglans are definitely more a casual style, especially if made in contrast fabrics, but I thought it was worth a crack in some nice wool knit and I'm very happy with it. It has a few little details that definitely elevate it above the casual. I do wish I'd worn a different bra for these pics, but meh.
The pattern was quick, came together well and is great value as a download. This is the second Named pattern I've made, the first being a disastrous Tyler shirt from their first collection. Most of their patterns come layered, meaning normally tracing is essential, but this one isn't making it a quick and easy construction of the PDF. The only slightly annoying thing is the sizes are divided into different files, meaning you get 2 sizes per printout making it hard to grade if your two sizes are in separate files - I measured in at the 38 for the bust but had a sneaking suspicion my muffin top would need more room, and the 38 is paired with the 36. It was easy enough just to add a little extra room to the side seams, tapering up to nothing at the bust point.
The sleeves have little darts, which I have seen in a few raglan patterns now. It does help to add some shape, but over the day mine seemed to move down my arms a little giving a little pucker. I do have narrow shoulders, and it may also be related to the neckline stretching out a little. The next one I shall make with a tighter neckband (it's inserted in the round and I think that's a method that doesn't take into account stretch variation in fabric - this wool needed a very firm steaming and talking to to get the neckline to sit flat) and if that doesn't fix the issue I'll probably shorten the length of the darts next.
It all came together beautifully. The instructions are very comprehensive, and it's worth noting that the seam allowances are 1cm. It's specifically pointed out in the general instructions to ensure SEAM LINES are lined up as well as notches - this is really important with the raglan sleeves as they are all super weird shapes and angles - if you match up the fabric edges you'll have a neckline that is pretty disastrous.
I squeezed this out of a metre of fabric by cutting the sleeves a little shorter and adding some bands for the extra length. The length in the body is perfect for me, and I was pleased with my extra hip room but probably could have got away without it.
So I think it's a winner. The other fancy raglan I made a long time ago was this Burdastyle one - despite the crummy neckline I've had heaps of wear out of it and I think I'll give it another spin this winter too in a nice woolly knit - I think my neckband skills have improved in 2 years!
And now for something completely different.... actually it's not. It's another striped Mandy tee. Yawn, I know.....
But wait..... there's a little party going on in the back.... check it out!
Cute, right? I got the idea from this pic off Pinterest. It was very easy - drew a keyhole slit, cut, traced a facing, wedged the ribbon between the layers, sewed the facing, top stitched, then finished the neckline as the pattern directs.
The ribbon does sit a bit wonky at times, and to avoid it unravelling I stitched it together flat, then just tie it before putting it on (the neckline is so wide it doesn't matter that it doesn't stretch). Despite the overpriced PRINTED (grrr) stripes I love it. I was desperate to make it so I settled for whatever stripes I could get. What can I say? I'm an addict.