Finished - just in time - the Vinyl Vacation
Friends I promise you this is the last gaudy man-shirt I will subject you to for a while. I've posted my latest Negroni over at Stitch 56 but wanted to share with you a bit more of the nitty gritty changes I made since my first Negroni, the epic Mindblower creation of 2015.At the same time as purchasing the most tasteful fabric in the world for my guy I also grabbed this fab retro inspired Vinyl Vacation Alexander Henry print. Is this not the perfect fabric for some Alohawear?
Due to a fabric shortage I had to piece the plackets, which meant having both on the inside, than the traditional outside, but when I checked out some RTW shirts there was such variation in how plackets were constructed that I really don't know what's traditional and what isn't anymore!
Anyway for the stand/collar construction I decided to go back to Andrea's excellent tutorial, but then looked a little closer at Peter's on the shirt sewalong and noticed that his had a very slight difference which gave me a slightly better finish. They both suggest attaching once piece of the collar stand to the collar, then the free collar stand to the shirt, then the whole shebang, but where Andrea suggests attaching the OUTER collar stand first then topstitching down the INNER to finish it all off, Peter suggests the opposite. So thats what I did, just to see if it made a difference. And I think it did - when you think about it the INNER collar stand is generally what is more visible if you don't wear our top button done right up to the top. If you attach the OUTER stand first you are doing your final top stitching on the INNER stand so you need neat top stitching AND have the seam allowance folded under perfectly and evenly. If the inner stand is already attached you've a lovely even seam allowance already stitched in place, and what you are folding over to stitch down is the OUTER stand seam allowance which will be hidden under the collar. So if it's a little wobbly and dodgy (see pics below) it won't be as visible. Does this make sense? I still top stitched from the inside after basting down the outside, so that it was as neat as possible. I think it made a big difference. Here's a close up of the nice inner collar stand (attached first) compared to the
I actually intend to redo that, as it is making my eye twitch. But do you get my point? I think I'm getting a bit obsessed about collar stands.....